Manifold Bushing Repair in 3.5L engine
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FOR THE LIGHT - yank the bulb if it's the maintainance required light. if it's the check engine light, go to an independant shop and have them run a diagnostic code.. then FIX WHAT'S WRONG.
FOR THE WASHERS.. jc whitney sells an aftermarket replacement pump for 6 bucks. they sell a kit with hoses, a switch, and the pump/reservoir assembly for 15 bucks. make sure it's not just a problem with your switch in the vehicle or a fuse, first.
FOR THE OIL LEAK.. beats me, i've got a 2.6. step one, wash the engine really really well. then pay attention to where the oil comes from.
FOR THE LIFTING - here is a random sampling (cut and paste) of my various previous rants on the subject....
"""this subject has been touched upon dozens of times here.
the biggest factor is if you want LOOKS or ABILITY.
i'm more concerned with ability.
you can fit 33" tires on your montero as it sits, as long as you have wide enough rims. i'd suggest 8" wide rims for 12.5" tires, so that you have plenty of bulge on the rims but there are a couple schools of thought here. the point is, 33" tires will lift your rig, look cooler, and increase your ability to go wherever you damn well please. they will also protect your rocker panels etc a little bc they bulge out more, and with the right offset rims they will make your rig more stable.
you can turn up your torsion bars for about 2 inches of lift up front, depending on how zealous you are when you do it, whether or not you trim your bumpstops, etc... the only drawback of this one is you lose downward travel on the front wheels, but if you just want looks this shouldn't matter much. also if you continue to turn the bars after they've hit the stops, you'll get terribly stiff suspension up front.
for the rear, i believe lloyd recommends Valley springs... and although lloyd is legitimately insane, i trust most of what he says about monteros. i didn't believe him when he said that monteros cure cancer, and i really doubt that a montero single-handedly defeated gengis khan. you can get about 2 and a half inches outta' valley springs in the rear. if you intend to use it off-road, you should look into extending your brake lines a bit, and see if a custom spring shop can make you some VERY long, but VERY SOFT springs for the rear so that you can get as much flex as possible. Tark makes a compound shock assembly (using bilsteins) which assures that the shock absorber will NOT be the limiting factor in your flex, but the only place i've ever seen Tark products is at 4xForce in fresno, CA.
if you use the vehicle off-road, it is becoming increasingly evident that flex is not always as important as the ability to keep all four wheels turning under force... so you should look into locking front&rear if that's not cost-prohibitive to you.
AND REGARDING TURNING UP THE TORSION BARS:
"""if you crawl under the side of your vehicle, you will notice a bar on either side running from the front suspension parts to about halfway back your rig, on a frame crossmember. at the rear, each of these has a little 'arm' on it, with a bolt thru it. there is a nut on the other end of this bolt, and a second nut to lock against the first. (on the top of the crossmember).
to turn up your bars,
park your car on a LEVEL, FLAT surface.
put a well-fitting wrench on the top nut, and spin it a half inch or so up the bolt.. then put the wrench on the other, lower nut and hold it, put a ratchet on the bottom bolt-head and tighten.. this will lift the front of your vehicle, be sure to re-tighten the two top nuts together (a separate wrench on each, and hold the bottom one while tightening the top one until they're "good and tight" - i even went so far as to shoot a little blue silicone in there to keep 'em from vibrating loose, possibly unneccesary but i feel better having done it)
about the bumpstops, and how much to turn up the bars? this is up to you. here is what i did.
before i started turning the torsion bars, i removed the upper bump-stops. on an 87 there are four uppers, one on each front-and-rear leg of each upper a-arm.. they are each about an inch by an inch by an inch-and-a-half..your rig may be different.
i then proceeded to take the outward (contact) half of the bumpstop and drill several holes in it, to effectively soften it, allowing more travel to the front. i decided this is somewhat safer than completely cutting off half of it. then i re-installed all four bumpstops.
i found that while i was cranking the torsion bars i could look up into the front suspension and see the bumpstops, the surface which they contact, and an inch of sunlight between the two.. so i turned the ratchet until i could JUST BARELY not see the sunlight between 'em on both sides, then got out front of the rig and looked at it from several angles to make sure it looked level. it was so i got back underneath and re-tightened the two upper nuts together to lock them, and stood up to adjust my own nuts.
remember, if you turn your bumpstops an inch closer, this calculates to.. hell probably 2 and a half inches of actual lift, because of leverage.
i know this is probably more complex sounding than it has to be, it's really an amazingly simple procedure, which is almost impossible to 'screw up', and only takes a very short while
you don't have to do anything to your bumpstops if you don't want to, it only slightly affects your wheel travel. some people remove theirs alltogether with great success and a large impact on wheel travel, although i personally wouldn't recommend it.
also, as a general warning, it's probably not a good idea to keep tightening the torsion bars after they hit the bump-stops, it will make your suspension very stiff and more importantly, there's the possibility of destroying the torsion bar under heavy stress because it has to flex so much farther, and you are definitely setting yourself up for future sag. however i do NOT believe that just simply turning the bars up TO the bumpstops contributes to sag significantly enough to be of a concern.
FOR THE SHOCKS - i know that NOBODY here will agree with me on this one, but they can all go "F" themselves.. this is the honest truth. it doesn't matter what kind of shock you use, as long as your shocks are in good shape. there, i said it. and i'll stand behind it any day to anyone. now, some shocks last longer than others i'll admit that. BUT - autozone has the cheap red ryder shocks for ten bucks each for older monteros. yeah. ten bucks. and that buys you a LIFETIME NO QUESTIONS ASKED REPLACEMENT WARRANTY. ten bucks. the ride is indistinguishable from any other standard-ride shock. it takes less than half an hour to replace a pair of shocks on a montero by one's self in a non-motivated state of mind - so if every 30k i have to get under there and do that, and drive the 2 miles down to autozone, no cost and no questions asked, dammit it's worth ten bucks for damn sure!!
FOR THE BUSHINGS.. which bushings? A-control arm bushings cost about 25 bucks /side from pep boys for the uppers and 40 bucks for the lowers. sway bar bushings are standard items, for 4bucks at pep boys, and it's not even behind the big parts counter - you have to cut a silly little trim piece off of them, but they're fine. the plastic pitman arm bushings cost 4 bucks, sometimes special order, sometimes not, and come with grease but don't use those if you go off-road. take them to a machine shop and have them make you a pair of zerkable bronze ones just like 'em. it'll cost you 25-40 bucks or so at a shop unless they're rip-offing bastards. if you have a lathe, a drill, a micrometer and a tap it'll take about 3 minutes to spin off a pair from stock yourself. or what other bushings are you talking about?
FOR THE TIRES - go to pep boys, and get either the futura dakota 31x11.50 tires if you want a quiet ride and don't go UNGODLY rude off-road, or get the futura enforcer 31x10.50's if you want yer tires to hum and extreme traction is a must. these tires are AS GOOD AS bfg's, they HAVE WARRANTIES unlike bfg, and they COST LESS. they're made by cooper tires. 31x11.50 tires WILL fit your stock rims FINE no matter what anyone tells you. i have them (dakotas) on my stock steel rims and they look, feel, drive, etc GREAT. no problems at all. and they do make your vehicle slightly wider and more stable (and more lift) - plus any size is the same price, so if you do get different rims first you can get the 33x12.5's too
FOR THE FLARES.. umm.. well, you don't really need flares unless you do opt for new rims (pep boys also has 8" wide steel "wagon" wheels for about 25 bucks each in black, white, and chrome - then you can put 33x12.50 tires on EASILY.. )... even then flares don't REALLY apply to monteros. BUT i don't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to add flares... just get regular damn flares and screw 'em on. and show us pictures so we'll know what it looks like, or better yet come join us in person at a rally!
FOR THE EXHAUST - pacesetter makes headers for the 2.6 and 3.0 monteros. the 3.0 ones are about $180 for the pair directly from pacesetter (forgot the URL? sorry) but i don't have much info on the 3.0 ones. the 2.6 one is NOT a perfect fit, and requires either cutting a little notch in your frame, or "modifying" the exhaust with a sledge hammer, and shimming your passenger side motor mount up a quarter inch among other improvisations, but i hear it gives a decent increase. aside from that, have a muffler shop locally weld you up a new exhaust system. remember that by law they're not allowed to re-use your existing catalytic converter, even if you just put it on a month ago if you live in a pollution controlled state. a "cat-back" system may be the most cost-effective way to go - just get a low-restriction "performance" muffler like warlock or cherry bomb or something, and some good, mandrel-bent pipes. just don't get one of those 6" diameter muffler tips, or i'll come and hit you on the head with a board.
FOR THE ROOF RACK... john (forgot his board name, but he's got a Sport and was at the most recent AZ rally?) has a KICKASS safari rack. other than that, i was tossing around an idea for mounting a jamboree rack to the rear door, but it couldn't bear much weight because the door hinges can only take so much..
FOR THE LIGHTS - eh... any good lights i guess. brand doesn't matter, just get ones that look good to you and suit your purpose. sexy mounting positions include immediately at the base of the windshield on top of the fender edge (easy to aim by hand from the drivers' seat), on a safari rack on the roof, and on the front bumper in those two pre-drilled, pre-tapped holes. IMPORTANT - rig the lights on a SEPARATE, SWITCHED, FUSED, circuit, WITH A GOOD, SOLID RELAY. $500 lights look like crap with a $2 relay or worse yet just a switch. and USE HEAVY GUAGE WIRE on the main power and ground circuits. your lights are only as bright as what they're hooked up to.
OTHER IDEAS... if you have the cash, and if you go off-road, go insane on protecting your truck! monteros take a LOT of abuse off-road before anything frame/suspension/driveline-wise breaks. BUT, think of how much more they can take if you protect everything?! have a fab shop make you new skid plates over whatever looks exposed under the truck. if you drive in snow, or deep mud, have a skid fab'd for your pitman arm. if you crawl on rocks, get lloyd's rockers. and buy the bumpers he's supposedly starting to distribute. they kick ass.
also, if your budget ever permits, get lockers!! arb makes one for the rear and lloyd distributes a detroit locker for the front (only appropriate if you have manual hubs)
anyhow, this book is long enough, i'm going to bed now... hope that answers everything... and if you have any other questions please post 'em and i'll do my best to answer.
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Date Last Modified: 9/14/98